A New Kind of Pie Fight: This Pizzeria Is at War With Itself

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Until the new Una Pizza Napoletana came along, I didn’t think it was possible for a restaurant to fight itself to a draw.

In name at least, this is the fourth incarnation of the pizzeria that Anthony Mangieri founded in 1996 in Point Pleasant Beach, N.J. He has never run more than one Una Pizza Napoletana at a time; each time he moves to a new location, he closes the old one. In the East Village (2004-9) and San Francisco (2010-17), he essentially stuck to the routine he had established in New Jersey.

At the two-month-old location on the Lower East Side, though, he is in business with two chefs, Jeremiah Stone and Fabián von Hauske Valtierra, whose sensibilities are wildly different from his own. Their two other restaurants, Wildair and Contra, are very contemporary and European in outlook.

A meal at either one makes it obvious that Mr. Stone and Mr. von Hauske have carefully studied Copenhagen’s foremost exponents of fermentation and foraging. Nothing about Mr. Mangieri’s rigorously traditional pizza indicates that he could find Copenhagen on a map.

The three of them do have common traits. They take their cooking extremely seriously, favor simplicity and aren’t interested in easy ways out. So their collaboration — Mr. Mangieri is the pizza guy, of course, while his new partners handle appetizers, desserts and drinks — might not be doomed, but it isn’t exactly off to a promising start. The problem isn’t the common one of strengths in one area undermined by bad performance in others. Una Pizza Napoletana is almost all strengths, but they’re at war with one another.

Mr. Mangieri is a purist’s purist. His dough runs on wild yeast. For each batch, he mixes a lump of starter into Sicilian sea salt, finely ground Italian flour and water. With this he makes a crust that is delicious on its own, a minimum requirement for great pizza.

He makes pies in only one size, a wheel about 12 inches across. There are five on the menu most nights. None are topped with more than four ingredients, or six if you count oil and salt. On Friday and Saturday nights a sixth, more complicated pizza is offered.

Requests for substitutions or added toppings are not entertained on any night. There is no point asking Mr. Mangieri to put pepperoni on a margherita or Buffalo chicken and blue cheese on a marinara. You would have better luck persuading the driver of the M5 bus to pop a wheelie on Fifth Avenue.

Anthony Mangieri has had four places called Una Pizza Napoletana, but never more than one at a time.CreditDaniel Krieger for The New York Times

The pies are at least as extraordinary as the ones he used to make in the East Village. They may be better. I don’t remember the imported buffalo mozzarella’s giving the pies the flavor of melted cultured butter back then, the way it does now. And did the tomato sauce — pulp, really — always have the same natural, sun-ripened sweetness? Especially on the marinara, unobscured by cheese and seasoned only with dried oregano, fresh basil and raw garlic, it’s almost hypnotic.

The Concetta pie, which has four varieties of tomato treated four separate ways, probably would have been beyond his abilities as a chef in the Jersey Shore days. He makes it only on Fridays, which is too bad, because it’s great.

The everyday pie called the Filetti, made with buffalo mozzarella and ripe red cherry tomatoes, manages to be surprising while sticking to Mr. Mangieri’s strict principles. It’s a personal creed that achieves transcendence — his “My Way,” to put it in New Jersey terms.

I ate one non-transcendent pie at the new Una Pizza Napoletana, a Bianco, which is topped with buffalo mozzarella, raw garlic and basil. It was excellent the next time I had it, and I immediately knew what had been missing: salt.

All the pies are $25. That is a lot for pizza. On the other hand, it is only about $2.50 more than what Mr. Mangieri charged when he first came to Manhattan in 2004, once you adjust for inflation. Then again, people said he charged a lot for pizza in 2004.

Mr. Mangieri and his wood-fueled oven are located at the back of the dining room, enclosed by glass on three sides. No doubt this helps keep the wood fire from wilting the customers like basil leaves, but it’s hard not to see it as a metaphor for the restaurant. Mr. Mangieri’s pizzas leave the glass box, but his sensibility doesn’t. Mr. Stone and Mr. von Hauske have put their own point of view on everything else, and it’s not the point of view of a pizzeria.

Everybody knows how to eat in a pizzeria; most of us have been doing it since we were kids. The choices are few and relatively predictable. Even when the pizzas are topped with weird stuff, you basically know what you’re getting. At the new Una Pizza Napoletana, only the pizzas are predictable.

A wood fire cooks the pizza in about two minutes.CreditDaniel Krieger for The New York Times

There’s a fine, tender panna cotta with fresh fruit for dessert. One night the strawberry syrup spooned over it was essentially strawberry vinegar; on another night, its sweet-sour ratio was back in alignment.

The other desserts I tried — a bittersweet tiramisù with a welcome crackle of caramel hidden in its layers, and some pure-tasting, impossibly smooth, eggless ice creams, including a pistachio flavor that has to be tasted to be believed — won me over from the beginning.

None of the other appetizers were as charmless as the white asparagus. A freshly shucked sea scallop seasoned with translucent strips of lemon peel and individual dots of couscous was exceptional. And raw lobster surrounded by chickpeas was wonderfully jittery with an Italian citrus-chile paste. But the chefs serve it in a form — a chopped mass of unidentifiable goo — that can’t help but look off-putting. That dish would fit right in at Wildair; here, among the tomatoes and mozzarella, it seems to be trying too hard.

The same goes for the wine list. As they have done in their other places, Mr. Stone and Mr. von Hauske focus on natural wines. These wines can be mercurial, and the way the list is written only adds to the confusion. Almost no varietals are named, and you can’t tell much from the Italian regions, which include such major hubs as Irpinia and Solicchiata. When, helplessly, you accept a server’s offer of assistance, you’ll be asked what you intend to eat with your wine.

Are there any people other than sommeliers who want to talk at length about pairing particular wines with particular pizzas? I’ve never met them and if I do, I’m sending them off to be deprogrammed.

Discussing the list, tasting a few samples, trying to find something that fits your idea of a good pizza wine (yes, for some reason there are wines on the brief list that don’t taste especially good with any pizza) — all this slows down the pace, which isn’t especially brisk to begin with. By the end of the night, your meal can last twice as long and cost twice as much as it would at almost any other pizzeria in town.

Fresh dinner ideas for busy people who want something great to eat, with NYT Cooking recipes sent to you weekly.

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10 Easy Steps to Succeed in Your Online Classes

Congratulations Youve made up our minds to pursue your upper schooling, and doing so online is how to pass if you have an interest in a versatile, studentcentered educating manner. Studying online permits you to pursue different pursuits and attend to different responsibilities whilst nonetheless operating your method towards some extent. However, it will now and again imply that its clean to get distracted. Here are 10 clean steps to verify luck on your online categories.

Connect together with your instructors once conceivable. Even in case you are doing smartly within the category, its extraordinarily vital to increase a rapport together with your trainer. When you do that early on, you temporarily understand what the priorities are within the route, what expectancies the professor has of you and youre going to be motivated to prevail, surer of whats forward and higher ready to do smartly with the impending subject material.

Valuable questions to invite your trainer come with the next

How versatile are you with time limits How versatile are you with grownup freshmen What applied sciences do you employ within the route How to be had are you through e mail and different sorts of verbal exchange How do you put up an internet neighborhood and what are the expectancies for participation in it In addition, since instructors are to be had to lend a hand all over the classes, its all the time just right to have had private touch with the trainer early on. This method, when you wish to have lend a hand, its more straightforward to achieve out and get the help you wish to have.

Confirm the technical necessities of the route. Online categories can also be very advisable for college kids with busy schedules, however provided that they are able to simply get right of entry to the fabrics. It is vital to obviously perceive what the technical necessities are. So, ahead of the route begins or as quickly thereafter as conceivable, youll want to test that your pc will paintings with the entire online equipment, and that you understand how to navigate them. This will be sure that you dont must spend time all the way through the route attempting to determine the generation.

three. Create a time table and stick with it. Quality online instructors create classes which might be clean to navigate and feature transparent expectancies. Having that roughly easytodealwith framework in position will make learning and succeeding that a lot more straightforward. However, although the framework and necessities of your category arent as transparent, youll create a time table and construction, which is able to very much fortify your probabilities of luck within the route. Using equipment equivalent to Google Calendar is a good way to start out. Knowing how your weeks and months glance and scheduling blocks of analysis time for each and every activity or module will will let you stick with a time table.

four. Ask questionsall the time. When you dont perceive, ask questions. When you do perceive, ask additional questions. Instructors recognize scholars who take part, and if theres a participation or dialogue part a part of the grade, then asking high quality questions is helping guarantee your grade on this space. Even if there isnt a participation part, its all the time helpful to invite inquiries to remember to perceive the fabric and are transparent on what is needed of you.

five. Be arrangedand keep arranged. Students whore taking conventional, campusbased classes most often have a constant time table to observe each and every week, through which study room instruction is adopted through assignments out of doors the category. However, for online classes, scholars will have to search out their very own techniques to stick on most sensible in their paintings. It is crucial that you just be arranged from the start of the semester with the intention to achieve success in an internet route. For instance mark task due dates on your calendar, discover a submitting machine for each online subject material and bodily subject material that is helping you stay monitor of the whole lot simply, and shed light on find out about schedules that duvet sections of the route one by one so youve got an arranged tactic to protecting the semesters subject material as you pass alongside.

Have a blank, quiet, and constant workspace. One factor online and inclass classes have in not unusual is that scholars all the time want a spot to review or whole assignments this is blank, quiet, and constant. You can select the place that is for youwhether or not its at a espresso store, a college library, a devoted place of business, or at house. Wherever you select to review and whole assignments, you must make it a constant location that doesnt have out of doors distractions. It is basically key that where is quiet and lets you focal point in your paintings with out distractions.
Do no longer procrastinate. Successful distance freshmen hardly procrastinate. They dont do away with assignments or wait till the final second to write down their papers. Successful online scholars experience freedoms that come with operating at their very own tempo and the facility to finish their paintings in as a lot time because it takes them. On the opposite hand, they know that finishing their assignments is best performed early and on time cramming merely doesnt paintings, and it doesnt will let you retain knowledge longterm. Get began early on getting a success.

eight. Work in your studying comprehension. Successful distance freshmen generally tend to have just right studying comprehension abilities. Most conventional, campusbased scholars concentrate to lectures and take notes, and a few online classes additionally require this. However, the vast majority of distance freshmen are anticipated to grasp subject material thru a large amount of studying. Although far finding out classes be offering video recordings and audio clips, maximum systems require scholars to hide and grasp a considerable amount of written knowledge. If it is a problem for you, it could be very useful to first sign up in a studying comprehension route there are lots of assets online that will help you do that. This ability by myself could make a huge distinction on your luck.

nine. Establish and admire routines that be just right for you. If, for instance, youre employed best within the morning or in brief bursts, then set find out about routines that can help you find out about within the prelunch hours when your mind is contemporary. If, then again, you do best through learning at evening or at the weekends when youll devote nightowl hours or longer blocks in your learning, then make it some degree to take action. Consider how and whilst you paintings best, and enforce a find out about plan that respects the routines that be just right for you.

Connect together with your friends. Establishing sturdy connections with friends and professors is a very powerful facet of tutorial luck, in addition to skilled development. One of essentially the most rewarding reports in schooling is finding out thru collaboration. Forming significant relationships together with your friends and professors can can help you be told extra, keep motivated, and feature an outlet to specific your personal working out of subject material. So, keep attached thru message forums, chat rooms, e mail, and different digital assets. And take note lots of the other people you meet in faculty shall be conceivable process assets down the road so determine connections and keep in contact

Florida National University gives a wealth of tutorial and professional online classes. Check out the entire choicesyour long run is ready