On the first undeniably cold night in November, an idea began to take shape in my head. The shape was specific, and it looked like the map o...
The Lobster Club Does Japanese, From Raw to Half-Baked
One thing that sets Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone apart from other very talented chefs is how happy they seem to be creating restaurants th...
At Ugly Baby, the Name Isn’t All That’s Unusual
If you’ve ever hired a contractor, someone probably told you that you can get work that’s good, fast or cheap, but not all three. This may b...
Can Fancy Chefs Excel at Fast, Cheap Food? Two Case Studies
Successful fast food restaurants have to be clean, efficient and consistent. As far as I can tell, though, it’s never been necessary for the...
Masa’s Chef Comes Out From Behind the Truffles, at Tetsu
When word went around almost six years ago that Masayoshi Takayama was going to bring one of his Las Vegas restaurants, Tetsu, to TriBeCa, I...
A Celebration of Black Southern Food, at JuneBaby in Seattle
As great restaurants will do, JuneBaby pulled me in from more than one direction. The first of course was the sheer pleasure of the cooking....
Red-Sauce Italian Cooking Finds a Future at Don Angie
Ever since Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone began rehabilitating chicken Parm and Neapolitan cookies around 2010, I’ve been waiting for other ...
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